The black surcoat layer. Embroidery schematic - 1 element. The schematic was
traced off a large and detailed scan of the machine embroidery on the front of the black surcoat. Luckily
there was at least one of every major element that showed well. Since Bernard Hill was standing
at an angle to the camera, this design may be slightly more elongated than reality.
The schematic shows only the gold lines of the embroidery. The horse heads are a "red" that matches
the sleeves of the under tunic. The teardrop shapes appear to be the black cloth of the background
showing through, but could be embroidered as well. Certain parts of the design call for a finely
laid down satin stitch, but those can be observed by checking the many photos of the original
costume. The .pdf version of the diagram should print out for you with
the major lines of the grid at 1 inch intervals. The scanned photo version may not do so. Check
the measure first if you use that one. The .pdf will be a clearer print also. You need the Adobe
Acrobat reader to open this file.
On the collar: remove the triangle designs at the back of the design and also the top triangle
at the front of the design. This leaves a downward sloping collar (sort of a v-shape) which is
what you want, NOT a mandarin or nehru type collar. Match both sides. You will know that you have
the right match on the front design because there you will remove the top triangle design which is
closest to the center opening. The triangle left on the collar will match up with the remaining
triangle left on the front so that it will appear that both of them are there on the front design.
If this is not clear try looking at the finished piece.
This is the same embroidery that is on the collar of the green surcoat, which is worn under the
armor. On that collar the teardrop shapes allow the green fabric to show through on the design.
For the front you will use two of each element for each side, overlapping the triangle shapes to
get the full design. You can do more, but the original appears to use only two.
The bottom-most photo is the correct one. When I finally saw the tunic without the brown surcoat,
I had to go back and unpick on of the bottom "triangles". It is'nt there on the original.