More about the surcoat layer.

While working with the velvet, I found that it was very drapey and tended to wrinkle at the slightest touch. The one on display at FIDM seemed rather stiffer, but it was obviously velvet. I decided to interline the front panels with iron-on pellon to stabilize the drape. If you attempt this, use a light touch, a needleboard or thick terrycloth towel beneath the velvet, and choose your pellon with lots of "goo" on the back.

I did not cover the seam allowances. I also did not interface the back panel. When this costume is worn, the armor will compress the costume at the waist and I wanted some flexibility in the back to allow me to "pleat" the sides before cinching the armor.